Hawaii: More Than Just Beaches

Most people think of Hawaii as a beach destination. After our 6-day trip across Maui and the Big Island, we think of it as one of the most geologically and ecologically extraordinary places on Earth. Here's what we discovered beyond the resorts.

Maui: 3 Days of Volcanoes, Waterfalls & Black Sand

Haleakala National Park at 10,000 feet elevation rewarded us with a sunrise above the clouds — an experience unlike anything we've seen in the continental US. The Road to Hana is a rite of passage: 64 miles of hairpin turns past rainbow eucalyptus groves, waterfall-laced trails, and the Pipiwai Trail through bamboo forest.

Waianapanapa State Park's black sand beach and the secluded red sand beach were among the most dramatic coastal scenery we've ever photographed. Both require reservations in advance — book as early as possible.

Big Island: Volcanoes, Sea Turtles & a Live Eruption

Hawaii Volcanoes National Park is unlike any place on the planet. We hiked the Kīlauea Iki Trail — a 3-mile moderate loop across a solidified lava lake — and walked through the Thurston Lava Tube, a cathedral-like cavern formed by flowing magma. The NPS website lists current volcanic activity, so always check before visiting.

The defining moment of our trip came on November 28, 2022: we witnessed the Mauna Loa eruption from Mauna Kea at 11,000 feet elevation. Mauna Loa hadn't erupted in 40 years. Watching lava glow against the night sky from two active volcanoes simultaneously is a memory we'll carry for life.

Practical Tips

• Book Red Sand Beach reservations well in advance — slots fill quickly
• Check volcano activity status at nps.gov before planning your Volcanoes NP visit
• Allow plenty of drive time between Big Island locations — distances are deceptive
• Pack layers for Haleakala and Mauna Kea — summit temperatures can be 30°F even in summer
• Hawaiian green sea turtles are common on Big Island beaches; keep your distance (15 feet minimum)